Sunday, November 27, 2011

Seliba!

 Hello everyone!  I came into town for Thanksgiving, and got to enjoy some delicious American food and meet up with almost a hundred other Peace Corps volunteers from all over Mali, in the city of Sikasso.  Now I am back in Bougouni, my regional capitol, and have finally managed to grab a computer and some internet long enough to upload some pictures!

So when I was in Kissa a few weeks ago, the people of Mali (and Muslims all over the world) celebrated their biggest holiday, called Seliba, which in Bambara literally means "big prayer."  The festival, called Eid al-Adha in Arabic, commemorates Abraham's willingness to kill Ishmael (or Isaac, if you follow the Hebrew version of the story).  Because God stopped Abraham from killing his son and gave him a sheep to kill instead, Muslims celebrate this holiday by feasting on mutton.

On the morning of Seliba, the entire village gathered in from of the madrassa and lined up in rows.  As they gathered, wearing all of their finest clothes, one of the religious leaders of the community was preaching.  Finally when everyone was assembled, the whole village said a Muslim prayer together, taking about 15 minutes.  I also said the prayer, which involves a lot of bending over, touching your head to the ground, standing back up, saying "allahu akbar" and repeating. Then, the most respected men and highest religious authorities in the village gathered under a shawl to say, presumably more prayers, while the poorer people in the community can ask for alms.  Finally, everyone goes home to have fun, dance, and eat, eat, eat!



 This is the village assembled to pray.  The men are in front and the women in back, just as is the custom inside a mosque.  This is a rule because, if men see the women bend over to pray, they probably wont be thinking about allah anymore...


 The leading religious figures of the community gathered under a shawl.  Not sure if all Muslims do this or if, like many of Kissa's traditions, this is a hold over from a ritual in Kissa's animist past.



 A poorer member of the community (he has no kids) collecting alms.


 The slaughtered sheep being prepared.


 
 Mutton being distributed on a metal sheet.  For many Malians, this is one of the few times a year that they get to eat meat.


 Musicians who put on traditional Bamanan clothing and played music!


 This Shagga, wearing his finest clothing.  He has been working in Mauritania for the past three years on a commercial fishing boat, and came home for the first time to celebrate Seliba.  He is now back in Mauritania.

Like Shagga, I will soon be traveling home for my culture's holidays (although I haven't quite been gone for three years!).  I am super excited to get back home again and see everyone.... I'll be home in 11 days!!  Then it's back to Mali for another year or so!